Looking at rice

(I've updated this very popular post with some info about germ rice (haiga-mai) and sprouted brown rice (hatsuga genmai). In case you missed it the first time around, here it is again in your RSS reader and on the front page.)

Rice is a big part of my food life. While I do like other kinds of carbohydrates, especially good bread and pasta, rice is definitely my favorite.

There are so many different kinds of rice though. Even if one leaves out the rather more exotic kinds like red rice from the Camargue, American wild rice (which is not actually a rice but a kind of grain) or black rice (kokumai), I usually have on hand several different kinds of rice, each with a different use. Here are the ones I have in the pantry right now that I use in everyday cooking.

rices-longgrain.jpgThis is the long grain, parboiled rice, the kind that is most commonly used in European and American cooking. The grains don't stick together, for that separate, 'fluffy' texture that American/UK cookbooks find desirable. To me this is the most boring kind of rice with little character of its own. Nevertheless it is the least expensive kind of rice usually, and has its uses. I use this for rice dishes that have a lot of added flavor, like pilafs or fried rice.

rices-uruchi-japonica.jpgThis is Japanese-style rice, or uruchi-mai - the kind of rice I talk about the most on this site. It is also sold as medium grain rice, or sushi rice. It's the rice to use for almost any kind of Japanese dish, including the all-important sushi and onigiri. The rice grains cling together without being mushy when properly cooked. This rice must be polish-washed to bring out its best flavor, as I have previously described. The best kinds of this rice have a translucent quality and have clean, rounded grains. As you can see, the grains are rounder compared to long-grain rice.

A variation of white uruchimai is haigamai (germ rice, 胚芽米). It's hulled and polished white rice with the germ left intact. This is a bit more nutritious than regular white rice. This is getting more available at Asian/Japanese groceries.

rices-uruchi-genmai.jpgThis is gen-mai, the brown version of uruchi-mai. It requires more water and a longer cooking time than the polished version. If you are in the market for a new rice cooker you may want to look for one that can cook brown rice. I've been eating more of this instead of the polished rice recently. Since the bran that is on brown rice contains oils that can turn rancid, it should be as fresh as possible. (Update: how to cook brown rice in a pot on the stovetop.)

One way to process brown rice, which is supposed to make it much more nutritious, is to let it germinate or sprout. This turns it into hatsuga genmai (literally, "sprouted brown rice", 発芽玄米, also known as GBR in health-food/vegan circles). To sprout rice on your own, soak it in lukewarm water for 24 hours, and keep it in a warm place (I keep mine on top of the hot water tank). At the end of the 24 hours, you may see the end of the grains are splitting a bit, and evena tiny little white root peeking out - that means it's sprouted. If it hasn't sprouted yet, rinse the grains and cover again with lukewarm water. If it still hasn't sprouted by the end of another 24 hours, it probably never will, so you can just cook it before the grains start fermenting actively. Since the grains have been soaked for so long you can cook it as you would white rice (in a rice cooker for example). It is softer and supposed to be easier to digest than regular brown rice.

You can also purchase sprouted rice - look in health food stores.

rices-mochi.jpgThis is mochi-mai, or mochi rice, otherwise called sweet rice, short-grain rice, or sticky rice. The grains are not really that much shorter than the "medium-grain" uruchi-mai above but as you can see, the grains look quite different. The are opaque and white rather than transculent. This is beaten and kneaded to make glutinous mochi cakes, used to make osekihan (red rice with beans), or used for some sweets.

rices-vialone.jpgThis is vialone rice from Italy. I use this or arborio rice for making risotto. It actually looks quite similar to uruchi-mai, and can in a pinch be used instead of Japanese rice. This is useful to know if you live in an area where vialone, arborio and other Italian rice varieties are cheaper than Japanese rice (which is certainly the case in Switzerland...we are a lot closer to Italy than to Japan after all). The reverse holds true too - if you have more or easier access to Japanese rice than arborio, vialone or carnaroli, you can use that, unrinsed, for risotto. When used for Italian dishes rice is not rinsed, since the powder that clings to the grains is the substance that makes risotto creamy.

rices-basmati.jpgThe final kind of rice that is a staple in our house is basmati rice. It has the longest grain of all, and a translucent appearance. It also has a a distinctive sort of spicy aroma, which matches spicy dishes perfectly. I keep this on hand of for Indian and Thai type dishes. (I often have Thai 'perfume' or 'jasmine' rice on hand too, which is quite similar.)

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Looking at rice

Does anyone have advice on buying a rice cooker in the UK? I’ve been thinking of buying one for a while but I only ever see multifunction rice/slow/steam cookers which I’m not convinced about for Japanese rice.

The only Zojirushi cooker seemingly available in the UK is this one. It doesn’t look anything like the ones you recommend though so I’m hesitant. Any thoughts?

marceline | 11 January, 2007 - 19:17

Looking at rice

marceline, I see from some UK sites that they used to carry the ‘fuzzy logic’ models but they don’t any more..which is a shame. You can try asking at a Japanese food store if there is one near you (the small Japanese shop we have here in Zurich carries some cookers for the expat community, and there’s a good chance the ones in the UK do likewise). Or, there are some eBay vendors who sell them though you’d need to find out if the voltage is right, otherwise you’d need to get a transformer…which can be rather expensive on its own. (for what it’s worth, we have a transformer, but we run several Japanese and U.S. 110/120V appliances off it.) Good luck!

maki | 12 January, 2007 - 11:11

Looking at rice

Great post on the different types of rice. Another thing to think of about rice for many people is where it falls on the glycemic index (how fast the food turns to glucose in the blood.) For anyone who’s watching this, either for weight control or for a condition like diabetes or insulin resistance, parboiled rice (Uncle Ben’s converted rice) or basmati rice are by far the lowest on the glycemic index for white rice, and brown rice is also good.

Kalyn | 12 January, 2007 - 17:27

Thanks for this post and the

Thanks for this post and the great close-up photos. It’s fascinating to learn about the different kinds of rice! Here in Singapore, we always use Thai jasmine rice as the everyday staple for Southeast Asian cooking, as well as for Chinese food. Basmati rice has a distinctively different fragrance and texture to Thai jasmine. For me, a whiff of hot steaming basmati instantly conjours up memories of tantalising Indian curries :), but would seem rather odd to eat with Chinese and Southeast Asian dishes.

I’m a brown rice junkie :) and love trying different kinds of brown rice that I pick up in various health food stores and supermarkets. Am amazed to find more and more kinds of brown rice available, including long grain and short grain American, Thai jasmine, basmati, Japanese short grain, Japanese sweet rice, ‘red rice’ (sometimes mixed with white). I’ve seen many of these in organic and non-organic options too.

My Panasonic rice cooker does white, brown, sushi and even ‘nasi lemak’, which is Malay-style rice cooked with coconut milk! No cake function though :( - would love any hints on that ^_^.

niceties | 17 May, 2007 - 18:32

I like rice in moderate

I like rice in moderate quantities once in a while, we even have a traditional food rice based in our country. People say it’s very good but i can’t find it’s term in English, i don’t think it exists. Rice is a healthy food, good for teeth. I had no idea there are so many rice kinds, your blog was very interesting.

Staples Office Supplies UK | 12 June, 2007 - 16:36

Haiga mai

I read that there’s haigamai rice, which is not as hearty as brown rice but more nutritious than white rice. I’d like to try it but I know my rice cooker is only good for cooking white rice. Do you know if haigamai can be cooked in regular rice cooker since it’s not quite the same as brown rice? I cooked brown rice with my rice cooker before and the rice came out fine, but it made a big mess. It is a pain to clean every single time I make brown rice.

I am Thai but I prefer Japanese rice. When I have to use Thai jasmine rice, I’d cook it with a lot of water so it’ll be more plump and mushy…ehehehe =)

Pat | 23 January, 2008 - 23:04

haiga mai

haiga mai is white rice with the germ left on the grain. So yes, it can be cooked the same way as white rice.

maki | 24 January, 2008 - 05:13

Jasmine rice

hi! I love your blog… I have a bit of a thing about food as well! ^^ I was just wondering, if i want to make onigiri, would Thai fragrant rice work as a substitute for Japanese sushi rice?

PS: I’m studying in the UK now, and I agree with you - the western idea of “rice” is just boring and barely palatable. It’s either mushy and soggy, or else it’s undercooked and hard. ><

Thank you for sharing all your recipes! :)

siehyean | 28 January, 2008 - 04:00

jasmine rice

Hi siehyean! I don’t think jasmine rice would work well for onigiri, because it’s not ‘sticky’ enough for the grains to stick together. The onigiri would fall apart. But I think nowadays it’s getting a lot easier to buy ‘sushi rice’ as it’s called in the UK - I’ve seen it at supermarkets there.

maki | 28 January, 2008 - 08:53

Great post! I work on rice

Great post! I work on rice research (on resistance to diseases) so it’s really read about your post. What makes rice sticky is the amylose content, the higher the amylose, the less sticky. Basmati and sushi rice are at opposite ends of the spectrum and people from different areas have different preference. Like the Japanese and Korean prefer sticky rice, the better to eat with the chopstick, right?

The pictures look great as well.

Gay

A scientist in the kitchen | 29 January, 2008 - 14:44

Jumping to brown rice

Brown Japanese rice isn’t that easy to get in London and I’ve felt a bit intimidated by it (silly, huh?).
Your posts have encouraged me to seek it out and I’ve bought it for the first time.
It comes from the Japan Centre in London, but it seems to be part of the Toku Restaurant’s own supply. It’s bagged by them and labelled “Brown Rice, Akita-komachi grain, low pesticide, grown in the EU - with the toku logo”.
It’s twice the price of the white rice I usually use (2.90GB a kilo - 5.80GBP for a 2kg pack) but totally worth it.
Thanks so much for your cooking instructions, I wouldn’t have known where to start otherwise. Turns out that an hour is too long for this particular variety. On my second attempt (with Le Creuset pan) I used the lesser amount of water you suggested (1.5 ratio water to 1 of rice) and turned off the heat after 30 minutes. Rice came out very well, but I may need to experiment more. (I noticed a little bit of scum on the cooked surface, so this rice definitely needs a quick rinse first).
Both my husband and I are really enjoying it, so there’s no doubt we’ll be buying a lot more.
As well as being good for bento, I’ve found that leftover gen-mai is particularly nice with umeboshi and as a glorious addition to a tomato-lentil soup.
I really appreciate your help in introducing brown rice into our diets, Maki!

Loretta | 29 January, 2008 - 17:03

What a coincidence!

I bought this brown rice from the Japan Centre’s shop just last Thursday, and discovered this blog on Monday, the day of my first bento!

I’ve cooked the rice twice now, and maybe I’m just lucky, but I did it the same way as I do white rice, just for a longer time. I gave the rice a brief rinse, then put it in to soak for an hour with just under double the volume of water. After the soaking, I brought it slowly up to the boil, then turned the heat down and simmered it gently with the lid on for 35 minutes. At the end there was a little bit of water left, so I turned the heat right up high for thirty seconds.

I rather like that the rice from the Japan Centre is grown in the EU, rather than being shipped halfway around the world, and it’s nice that it comes in recycled (and recyclable) packaging. And it’s freshly milled on their premises too! How happy am I that they have an online shop for us non-London residents…

Katherine | 30 January, 2008 - 14:39

I love these upclose rice

I love these upclose rice photos!

Alejandra | 29 January, 2008 - 20:09

thanks

thanks for sharing the knowledge regarding rice.

isay | 29 January, 2008 - 23:10

Haiga

I just bought a bag of Haiga this past weekend in Little Tokyo (Los Angeles) and will be giving it a try tomorrow. I’m going to follow your instructions for freezing rice, so that I’ll have a bunch of packets in the freezer for putting in my bentos. I’m also going to give your bacon furihake a try! Thanks for the tutorial on rice. What awful thing have they done to Minute Rice to make it instant rice?

Cyndi | 2 February, 2008 - 05:50

minute rice...

Not sure what they do to it…. I rarely meet a rice I don’t like, but Minute Rice is the exception for sure. It tastes like…boiled lint. Great that you’re using haiga-mai, and making bento too! :)

maki | 2 February, 2008 - 10:29

I’ve found that the key to

I’ve found that the key to making brown rice in my rice cooker is to add a little oil. I think it’s the same reason oil cuts down on pasta boiling over. I use either extra-virgin olive oil or the lighter flavored kind, depending on whether the strong flavor of EV is appropriate for how I’m going to use the rice. It doesn’t take much. I think the least I have used is about two teaspoons for two cups uncooked rice. I think a teaspoon would probably work. Best to mix it with the dry rice before adding the water. Hey, why have I never tried sesame oil for this?

If I don’t use oil, then I get light brown rice starch water all over everywhere. It bubbles up out of the steam vent. My old rice cooker had a loose glass lid and that was even messier (and I never tried the oil with it). My current rice cooker is a cheap Aroma that doesn’t have fuzzy logic or sharp logic or in fact any kind of logic: it has “cook” and “warm.” (For “off” you have to unplug it.)

I don’t know if the oil would prevent making onigiri, which I’ve never tried, but now I’m wanting to! Usually I use long grain brown rice anyway, because at the store where I go (Hy-Vee) it is cheap. The store brand costs the same as the store brand white rice. I think it’s $1 for 2 pounds. But they do have a shorter grain brown rice which I may have to try — I assume short grain brown is stickier than long grain brown, just as with white.

anon. | 22 March, 2008 - 23:20

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