duck

Duck breast: pan-fried, poached and marinated in booze (Kamo ro-su)

maki — Tue, 08 Jan 2008 09:52:30 +0100

[Update: A couple of people emailed me about this, so I thought I would put it here unless others had the same question. Yes, this duck is meant to be served cold, as part of a cold appetizer or a salad. And yes it is that rare (though as I’ve written in the recipe you can poach it a bit longer until it’s well done.) It’s like seared rare beef. And yes duck is ok served rare. (Buy good duck of course.)

Incidentally, if you have a general question about a post or recipe here it is really better if you ask me in the comments rather than email. Everyone can read the comments, so other people who have the same question can benefit. Plus, I always get to comments before email.]

I had to make this beautifully easy duck breast dish three times over within a span of two weeks. The first two attempts disppeared before I could take a photo.

The original recipe is on the Kyou no Ryouri (Japanese link) (Today’s Cooking) website. They call it kamo ro-su, which means roast duck, but it isn’t roasted in the sense that Westerners understand roasting. It’s just pan-seared on both sides, then poached briefly, then allowed to marinate in the poaching liquid.

The original recipe uses red wine, mirin and a mere spoonful of brandy. I used about half a cup of the raisins and currents marinated in liquor that we still have a ton of, since the planned post-Christmas panettone I had planned didn’t get made. The saltiness of the soy sauce, the sweetness from the dried fruit and mirin, and the beautiful booziness of the liquors really enhances the flavor of the dark duck meat. I’ve also adjusted the proportions of the marinade ingredients a bit.

This is one of those recipes that only takes minutes of your kitchen time but still tastes like you did a lot more, because most of the work is done as the duck marinates.

Recipe: Japanese-style poached and marinated duck breast (Kamo ro-su)

I’ve found that making 2 breasts at a time is easier than making just one, because there’s more liquid to keep the breasts immersed. Halve the recipe for 1 breast.

2 boneless plump duck breasts with the skin on (mine weighed in at around 450g / around a pound each)

The marinating liquid:

1 cup dry red wine
1 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup mirin
1/2 cup raisins and currents marinated in liquor with a bit of the liquor, or 2 tablespoons brandy

The garnish etc.

A little grated or reconstituted-powder wasabi or mustard
Green garnish (The original recipe calls for shungiku, which is impossible to get in Switzerland in January, so I used a little flatleaf parsley. Arugula (rucola) should work well too.)

Pierce the duck on the skin side several times with a sharp knife or skewer.

Heat up a frying pan with no oil in it. Put the duck breasts in the pan, skin side down, and fry until the skin is dark brown in color. Turn the breasts over and sear the non-skin side briefly.

Take the breasts out of the pan, and drain off the fat. Wipe the pan out with a paper towel. Pat the duck breasts a bit to get rid of excess surface fat.

Put the pan back on the heat and add the liquids and the raisins. Heat up until the liquid is boiling, then lower the heat until it’s just bubbling slightly.

Add the duck breasts back into the pan. Poach for about 8 to 12 minutes (depending on how big your duck breasts are), turning over once about mid-way through. (Cook for a shorter time if you like it quite rare in the middle, as in the version shown here, and longer if you want it well done. Either way it’s good!)

Take the duck breasts out, draining off the liquid. Put on a plate and cover with Saran wrap or aluminum foil. Leave for about 20 minutes to let the meat rest. It will continue to cook a bit from the residual heat.

In the meantime, put the poaching liquid into a non-reactive container (such as glass or ceramic) that you can close up tightly. I would not use a plastic container, because the marinade will stain and odorize it forever. Let the whole thing cool down, then put in the refrigerator. Leave until it’s cold, for at least a couple of hours.

To serve, drain off a breast and slice as thinly as you can. Slicing it while it’s still cold from the fridge makes this easier.

Drizzle a little of the marinade over it, plus a few of the raisins if you like. Optionally serve with a little wasabi. (Reconstituted wasabi powder is fine, though freshly grated is better of course.) Mustard works too.

Serve on its own, on a salad, or on noodles.

It will keep for several days in the refrigerator, immersed in the marinade. As time goes by the saltiness gets more pronounced and the boozy flavors fade.

If freezing, freeze in enough of the marinade to keep it moist, and defrost in the refrigerator.

This is quite rich, and a little goes a very long way. One breast should serve 2 to 4 people as part of a main course salad, and you can get 6 to 8 appetizer servings out of each breast.

About Kyou no Ryouri, the longest running cooking TV program ever (?)

Today’s Cooking is a long-running cooking show on NHK in Japan. Last year they celebrated their 50th anniversay on air. Has any TV cooking program anywhere been on the air longer than that? I rather doubt it (though if you do know of one, let me know in the comments.)

The companion magazine is my favorite food magazine in any language. I have issues going all the way back to the ’70s, when my mother used to subscribe to it. (The new baby sister magazine, Kyou no Ryouri Beginaazu (Today’s Cooking [for] Beginners) is also good.) I don’t get to see the TV program because I can’t justify paying 80 CHF per month for JSTV when the only program I’d probably watch on it would be Today’s Cooking, but the website and the magazine keep me happy enough.

MasterChef challenge, day 12: Maple glazed duck breast with sweet potato, potato and parsnip oven fries

maki — Mon, 13 Feb 2006 15:56:17 +0100

Well it's day 12, the last day of the third week of the preliminary rounds. The ingredients were:

Guinea fowl
Sweet potatoes
Parsnips
Gorgonzola cheese
Bacon
Penne pasta

A word about the selection of the ingredients on the show itself. Sometimes they specify 'bacon', sometimes 'pancetta', and then they have specified 'gammon' once. Is there a huge difference between those? I think that 'gammon' is a big piece of bacon that is usually eaten like a pork chop. Pancetta is Italian bacon. Bacon is... bacon. Sliced. Um so... when you cook them is there a huge difference? I don't know. As far as I can see, there is smoked bacon, and non-smoked bacon; heavily cured bacon, and lightly cured bacon. It's hard to say what just 'bacon' might be. I'm a bit hazy on my 'pancetta' too, except that it's more expensive than plain old 'bacon' (or around here, 'Speck'.)

But anyway, back to the list for this day. Guinea fowl is something we can't get here, or at least certainly not in February, so I substituted duck breast. And what goes with a nice duck breast? Why, fries/chips/frites of course. (In the U.S. they are called fries, in the U.K. chips, and here-ish they are frites.) This is a mix of sweet potatoes, parsnips, and regular white potatoes. The sweetness of the sweet potatoes and parsnips goes very well with the duck.

This is my favorite way to make fries - not deep fried, but in the oven. With butter, or olive oil. The types of oil that have a high enough flash point to be used as frying oil, such as peanut or safflower oil, don't really add any flavor, but butter and olive oil certainly do.

The only thing to be aware of is that regular white potatoes take a bit longer to cook than sweet potatoes or parsnips, so they are parboiled. This also roughens up the surface of the potato a bit, making it more crunchy.

The duck breast really cooks fast, so you will want to start it off about 15 minutes before the end of your target cooking time. It will take about 5 minutes on the skin side, 3-4 minutes on the other side, then the rest of the time is for 'resting' - leaving the succulent breast lying there to relax and re-absorb its juices before slicing. Maple syrup is sweet but has other flavors in it so that it's not just sugary taste hitting you. It makes a really great glaze.

I have used a grill pan for this - this is the kind of pan with ridges on the bottom. It's really terrific for grilling, since barely anything sticks to it. If you don't have one, you can use a nonstick frying pan.

Serve with a green salad.

Unused ingredients: cheese, bacon, penne.

The verdict on this meal from an anonymous diner: "Plate-licking good!"

The amounts here will make two servings.

The order to make this meal is as follows:

Switch the oven on right away to heat it up.
Start the water boiling.
Peel your vegetables, and slice.
Toss the potato in to the boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes.
Melt the butter.
Toss the vegetables in the butter. Spread on the baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Set your oven timer to 25 minutes.
Prepare the duck, while heating up your grill pan.
Grill the duck.
Rest the duck, while you take out the oven fries.
Slice the duck, assemble the plate.

Mixed oven fries/chips/frites

1 medium boiling type potato
1 smallish sweet potato
1 small or 1/2 large parsnip
2-3 Tbs. butter
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 200°C / 400°F.

Start a pot of water boiling, with a little salt.

Peel and slice the vegetables into french-fry/chip/frites size, keeping each kind separate. Put the white potato slices into the boiling water, and cook for about 5 minutes.

In the meantime, melt the butter in a pan. Line a baking sheet with a non-stick silicon pad.

Drain the potatoes. Add them and the rest of the slices into the butter pan, toss well and season with salt and pepper. (You can add a little nutmeg here if you like.)

Spread evenly on the baking sheet, and bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes, turning them about midway through.

Serve hot!

Maple-glazed duck breast

One 300g / 10ounce boned duck breast piece, skin on
Maple syrup
Salt and pepper

Special equipment needed: grill pan

Dry the duck breast with several paper towels if necessary. Score the skin in a crisscross pattern with a very sharp knife. This is to release more fat from the skin, which also makes it crispier.

Heat up the grill pan until it's very hot.

Place the duck, skin side down, on the grill pan. Salt and pepper the exposed side. Don't move the duck for at least 5 minutes. At that point, take a look at the underside - it should be golden brown but not charred. Flip the duck.

Brush the surface of the skin with maple syrup several times. Salt and pepper that side. Cook for about 4 minutes, or more if you can't abide duck that's rare in the middle. (I love it that way though, and it's the most juiciest too.)

Take the breast off the heat and let rest for at least 5 minutes. Slice thinly, and serve.